Where Worlds Collide

It’s the little things that make Japan so intriguing. The amazingly efficient public transport system, the ticket collectors who bowed politely as I entered the carriages – you don’t get that on the 7.15 from Paddington…

But it seems I’m not the only one who’s intrigued. Japan is becoming increasingly popular with people curious to know more about its ultra-modern cities, contrastingly calm temples and ancient customs. It’s a destination unlike any other – simultaneously very westernised and yet utterly unique.

Some travellers are deterred by the perceived high price of a trip to Japan, but as I sat tucking into a bargain bowl of steaming noodles bought from a tiny street stall, I wondered what they’re worrying about. Sure, the mouth-watering sushi at the plush place down the road was a bit more pricey – but no more so than in a restaurant in the UK. With careful planning, an itinerary to suit a range of pockets can be put together.

I started my journey in Tokyo, a vibrant metropolis where technology and modern architecture combine to create one of the most mindblowing cities on earth. Yet old traditions survive still, and it’s easy to escape the bright lights for more rural environs. Nikko, a collection of bright shrines and temples dotted among lush, green hills, is less than two hours from the capital. And Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park – the best place to gaze at sacred Mount Fuji – is easily accessed from Tokyo by Japan’s fast and famous bullet trains. From Tokyo I travelled to Hiroshima, a city that needs little introduction. The site of the world’s first nuclear tragedy has been proudly rebuilt; I found this ‘International City of Peace’ delightful, visiting the moving Peace Memorial Museum and taking a contemplative stroll around its gardens. A short ferry trip took me to Miyajima Island, where the hustle and bustle of Japanese city life melted away. I wandered along the promenade and took photos of the iconic red torii, a huge gate that seems to float just off the shoreline. I delved into the quiet backstreets and shopped for traditional souvenirs before riding a cable car up to the island’s highest point. Here, shrines dot the hillsides and mischievous monkeys scamper about, while a panorama of the surrounding sea and islands stretches into the distance.

Dragging myself away from the coast, I headed for the hills in Japan’s centre, to Kanazawa and Takayama. These old castle towns retain much of the flavour of early feudal times; many old houses have been converted into museums depicting life centuries ago, while thatch-roofed farmhouses are now family-run inns.

Finally, Kyoto beckoned: a historic city where ancient and modern blend effortlessly. Kyoto was Japan’s capital for more than 1,000 years and still retains many cultural treasures. I meandered blissfully around the city’s tranquil temples and old streets. After a day exploring in the spring sunshine I found myself at the Kinkaku-Ji Temple. Its golden walls glimmered in the sun and its image was reflected brilliantly in the surrounding lake – perfect as a postcard, and a captivating image that encapsulates the charm of this fascinating, constantly surprising land.