TRAINS, PLANES AND BEARS

Dave Orrock, Canada Specialist, checks out Rocky Mountaineer's newest itinerary: The Fraser Discovery Route

Trains Planes and Bears

The lady from Sutton Coldfield seemed remarkably unfazed by my clambering almost on top of her seat in order to peer out of the domed window of the viewing compartment on the train. Fortunately for me, she was just as distracted as I was by the bulky figure of the black bear, who gave the huge metal monster no more than a quizzical glance before returning to his snuffling in the grass. Having seen one of the ‘big white ones’ the previous year on the fringes of the Hudson Bay, I was delighted to have already accomplished my personal goal of a black bear: it was only my second day in British Columbia! Little did I know what lay in store over the next few days.

I was travelling on the overnight ‘Canadian’ train from Vancouver to Jasper, just over the border from BC into Alberta, where the enchanting Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge awaited on the shores of Lake Beauvert. The resort’s delightful wooden chalets lie strung out along the shore of the lake’s crystal clear water; the backdrop of the mighty Rockies lending a quietly powerful tranquillity to the scene. As our group sampled some fine BC wine, looking out over the 10th hole of the superbly designed golf course, we chatted with anticipation of the following day’s departure aboard the Rocky Mountaineer.

Somewhat bleary-eyed from the 05.30 wake-up call, we clambered onto the coach for the short ride into the town of Jasper where our carriage awaited us. The destination was Whistler; the itinerary, the newest from Rocky Mountaineer: the ‘Fraser Discovery Route.’ We were to spend the first day in ‘Redleaf’ class, the lower of the two on offer, yet we were delighted to find the roomy carriage and spacious seating provided perfectly adequate comfort. The food, although of the cold variety, was also of a decent standard. Perhaps the best feature however, was the over-sized windows, which promised great opportunities for scenery viewing and wildlife (i.e. bear) spotting (the arbitrary figure of 15 had been decreed as the target, and would indeed be reached!). We were all of 5 minutes out of the station when the first dark shape was spotted scrambling behind a bush, and I pondered how these guys would fare in the world of espionage (strange thoughts come into my head when confronted with 05.30 wake-up calls…).

We headed northwest through and out of the Rockies at a gentle yet consistent pace, which saw us approach our overnight destination of Quesnel in the early evening. Next day we continued southwards towards Whistler, and our satisfaction with Redleaf was somewhat belied when presented with the domed carriage of Goldleaf class, the hot gourmet breakfast, and the open-sided viewing vestibule. As we travelled on through the soaring Fraser Canyon, and past a seemingly endless emerald-tinted lake, I reflected on the men who had previously travelled through these valleys and gorges, often leading harsh lives as they made their mark on the land, and laid the rails that now bear travellers in such refined comfort.

The picturesque mountain town of Whistler welcomed us with open arms, (and the most incongruous bear yet, who was strolling nonchalantly across the fairway of the 5th). From Whistler we were to have a final blast of jaw-dropping scenery, as we descended along the famed ‘Sea to Sky’ route between Vancouver and Whistler on the Whistler Mountaineer, and I was fully converted to the joys of train travel. My itinerary did still have one final scenic delight up its sleeve however, as on my penultimate day I clambered into a floatplane for the short flight over to Victoria. There is something about the combination of mountains, sea and city that stirs the soul, and fortune smiled on me in the form of the sun finally emerging from its clouds to set the water glistening.

From soaring mountains to the bay of one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen, it was apparent that travel and transport in this vast country was more than a method of getting from A to B – it was a motive to come in itself.