Snow good...?

Somewhat to my surprise, it was not the temperature (which was, incidentally, -20°C) which sent a shiver down my spine.

The ear-splitting baying of 42 huskies (if you have not had the chance to hear it recently) has an ethereal, slightly disturbing quality, and it does not take a great leap of imagination to picture their semi-mythical cousin, the wolf. We were assured however, that these animals were really only interested in tearing through the snow pulling a sled. (Rather than, say, rampaging across the Carpathians behind Nosferatu’s carriage as the sound made me think of…) I think an interest in literature and mythology is an asset when it comes to visiting Québec. There is an unreal, fantastical quality to the place (particularly in the depths of winter), that makes you feel for a moment as if you may just have strayed into the realm of a C. S. Lewis novel.

This is the real wintry wonderland upon which legend is built; the snow is that which you picture when you dream of such wonderlands - several feet deep, crisp and clean. The purity of the air is tangible, and as you rush through the forest on the back of a snowmobile, you relish its sweet burn upon your cheek. As a skier, and someone who has spent a fair amount of time in various mountains around the world, there were few occasions I could recall that had created such a vitality of feeling. I had certainly never stood in such pristine powder at the edge of a forest looking at a several hundred metre drop onto an ice-covered river being navigated by a cargo ship!

The stunning location upon the cliffs that drop down to the St Lawrence River is only one of the many reasons to pay a visit to the oldest fortified city north of Mexico. 2008 saw spectacular celebrations rolled out for its 400th Anniversary; the Québecois informed me (on more than one occasion) that 250,000 pitched up to the Plains of Abraham to see Sir Paul McCartney. While he’s probably not going to be there, I do suggest going up L’Observatoire de la Capitale, for truly astounding views over the Plains, the river and the city. The fortified aspect of the city (i.e. massive historic walls), has embraced an historical centre which is on a par with many others, and has been duly acknowledged with its UNESCO World Heritage status. The splendid buildings include the Château Frontenac, arguably the most spectacular Fairmont property in Canada, and the rather newer Parliament, just outside the fortified walls.

I imagine however, that the inhabitants of the Parliament building in the 1920s did not envisage what now stands proudly in front of it each February for the Winter Carnival: Bonhomme’s Ice Palace. Pretty much as the name implies this is, indeed, a palace constructed from ice. Surrounded by the current year’s entries in the snow/ice sculpture competition, this is a surreal locale a few steps from the St. Louis Gate. Québec has the largest Winter Carnival in the world, incorporating parades, snow sculpture, concerts, and some rather insane races on water, land or ice (not necessarily in mutually exclusive scenarios...).

On the subject of ice palaces, it would be remiss not to mention one of the stand-out points of my trip: the visit to the Ice Hotel. Just 45 minutes out of Québec, the Hôtel de Glâce has its own chapel (19 weddings booked for 2009 so far!), ice chandeliers, ice bar (with ice slide running past it!) ... this really is one of the most unique and stunning places you will ever stay in your life.

I think this is what really struck me about Québec in my short time there: they don’t just endure the (admittedly) harsh winter – they embrace it. Get home from the office after a day’s work: drive 20 minutes out of the city centre and do some night-time skiing. Go and see the fantastic Montmorency Falls (20 minutes from the city): while you’re there, grab an ice pick and try some ice-climbing. Husky sledding, ice skating, ice climbing, snowmobiling, skiing; there’s so much to try. The old adage of ‘there’s no such thing as poor weather, only poor clothing’ could never be truer than here!

You just need to wrap up warm and get involved; revel in the cold safe in the knowledge that there’ll be a warm fire, an excellent bottle of wine, and a delicious dinner waiting for you afterwards.