On Top of the World

I had always dreamed of climbing Kilimanjaro. Ever since I first saw the snow-capped bulk of Africa’s highest mountain looming above the clouds 11 years ago, I wanted to stand on top of it. At 5,895m it is immense – but it needs no specialist skills to climb. All you need is some basic fitness and a truckload of determination.

 

Now that I was actually standing on the mountain, it seemed even bigger than it had all those years ago. Trekking pole pole (slowly slowly) up the Machame route to Shira camp, we’d had the towering peak in our sights all day. Ascending between the gnarled trees dripping with old man’s beard and forests of ferns, Kibo – the iconic, rounded summit of Kilimanjaro – showed itself off, like a viper baring its fangs in a display of confrontation.

 

At Shira camp itself, clouds scudded into view and blocked the peak for a while, only to scoot off by tea time to reveal the summit in even greater glory, the mighty mountain jutting above the clouds, which were now a blanket below us.

 

As the sun set, the world glowed, and out of nowhere a three-course feast was prepared by our cook – a genius with a one-ring gas stove and a few simple utensils. Huddling in our mess tent by the flicker of candlelight, vast bowls of pasta and bolognese were served to make us strong enough for the next day’s trek. At first I felt greedy, but soon gobbled it down – one of the best things about climbing Kili is you need to eat. Your body uses much more energy at altitude so big portions are positively encouraged.

 

The following morning was cold but bright and, fortified with an enormous breakfast of eggs, sausages and porridge, we left behind the lush, rainforested slopes of lower Kilimanjaro and struck ever upwards across the barren but beautiful Shira Plateau, the summit of Kili brazen in front of us all morning. We were walking towards our sternest test so far – the 4,630m Lava Tower, a dark pinnacle of volcanic rock in the shadow of Kibo. After five hours of walking some people in other groups were already feeling slight symptoms of altitude sickness – breathlessness and headaches – but my partner and I were fine, so when our guide Prosper asked if we wanted to climb up, we were both eager.

Little did we know that it would be more like mountaineering. Every few metres, Prosper had to show me where to place my hands and feet, and my breathing became hard and heavy. It took 30 minutes to ascend the 50m tower – a speedy average of one and a half minutes per metre! But once at the top I felt incredible – the sense of achievement washed over me as I looked back on our tracks: the pale, snake-like trail weaving between the semi-desert rock formations, sweeping down to the valley below. Kibo was still more than 1,000 vertical metres above me – could I rise to the challenge?

 

I found out two days later. We’d trekked through valleys of giant lobelia and up the sheer face of the Barranco Wall, but it was all about this last night, camped at 4,600m Barafu camp and poised for the final ascent.

 

We went to bed at 7.30pm, only to wake a few hours later, pile on as many layers as it was possible to still move in, drink some tea, and set off up the slope at midnight.

 

It was the night after full moon, so the sky was still bright and we didn’t need our headtorches as we slogged up the scree and rock. The wind was blowing a gale, whisking away any conversation, so most of the walk was done in silence apart from quick shouts to check everyone was OK. Occasionally we’d stop for a rest, but not for long – it was too cold and we needed to keep moving. 

At about 5.30am, we reached Stella Point – 5,685m – the access to the crater rim. I was tired but felt OK, legs still working, my body keeping the effects of altitude at bay. I turned to Prosper who was grinning. “It’s not far now!” he said: the best news I had ever – ever – heard.

The next hour was a slow trudge over ice, between sparkling glaciers and ghostly rocks. At 6.30am, as the sun was rising, I saw our goal – there ahead was the batteredlooking sign I’d seen in so many brochures: ‘Congratulations: you are now at Uhuru Peak, Tanzania, 5,895m’. Tears of happiness welled in my eyes; we all hugged each other in congratulations. We were at the top of Africa!

 

The view was spectacular, the glaciers glittering in the early light, the clouds a soft carpet below. I took a few photos, but the cold was biting so we couldn’t stay long and started our descent. This was the hardest part; we’d made it to the top but now had to slog back down again.

 

“Where’s the cable car?” I asked Prosper, who just looked at me and laughed. I don’t think he realised I was completely serious!

 

After three hours of tumbling down scree we landed back in camp for a cold drink and a much-needed lie down in our tents. But not for long – we still had a long walk ahead of us, to reach our final camp. After around 13 hours of walking we flopped into Mweka camp and released our tired feet from our dust-caked boots. I was exhausted, but elated – I had made it to the top of Kilimanjaro!

 

To top it all, the camp sold beer, and that evening we had our best meal yet, swapping tales of how we’d felt earlier that morning, praising our guides who’d been towers of strength throughout our trip, and finally raising a toast to the mighty mountain.

Sales Manager Sarah has climbed many peaks around the world but still rates Kilimanjaro as her toughest challenge to date. To talk to our Africa team about your own Kili plans, call 0845 345 113

 

Tips for the top

- Don’t rush – you need time to acclimatise. Take an extra day if possible.

- Walk slowly.The slower you go, the better your acclimatisation and the more likely you are to make it to the top.

- Drink plenty of water – you need to drink at least three or four litres a day.

- Keep your camera inside your coat on summit night,as the cold can cause batteries to stop working.

- Take a thermal flask for summit night,as other water bottles may freeze.

- Try to time your final ascent with a full moon – the extra light will brighten your summit attempt.