OMAN THROUGH A LENS

 

Arriving in Oman, I immediately sensed that distinctive aroma of dry heat typical of the Middle East – but here, something was different. The white-and-cream painted houses were all pristine – following a government directive – but that was something I’d also seen in the old towns of Tunisia. Nor was it the efficient, fast-moving traffic: unusual for the region, but not exclusive to Oman. And then it suddenly dawned on me: there were no car horns sounding.

 

This civilised approach to driving was the first hint of why Oman is now one of the most talked-about destinations in the
Middle East. The Omanis are a gentle, calm people, who never fail to give you a heartfelt welcome: from guides to goat herders, all will shake your hand and many will offer traditional coffee and dates. And their country has an extraordinary array of attractions for the traveller: from luxurious hotels to Bedouin camps; from the harsh dunes of the desert to the lush citrus groves and oases of fig and pomegranate trees; from gleaming beaches to craggy mountains adorned with stands of frankincense trees. And if you’re looking for culture, you won’t be disappointed either: this is the land of the Queen of Sheba, who directed her mighty empire from Salalah in the south, and Sindbad the legendary adventurer, who is said to have hailed from the medieval maritime capital of Sohar.

 

Ever wanted to keep quiet about a place because you love it just the way it is? Well, I had that thought – but Oman really is too good to keep to yourself. Visit Oman now, whilst it’s still relatively unknown, and discover why it really is unique.

For those with a spirit of adventure, the 1000 Nights Camp offers the opportunity to spend time in the desert at Wahiba Sands. This remote area of copper-coloured sand dunes is the traditional home of the Bedouin and their racing camels. The camp is a unique opportunity to spend a truly peaceful night in a hand-made Bedouin wool tent,but even if you don’t want to stay over, the 4WD drive through the massive fields of barchan dunes makes for an unforgettable trip.

The majestic, 17th-century Nizwa Fort is a real must.Plan your visit for a Friday and you will also be able to spend time in Nizwa’s goat and sheep market, before visiting the old souk.Although the town’s fish, fruit and vegetable traders have decamped to new, government built premises, the spice and incense sellers still prefer the cavernous,mud-brick shops of the old souk.

Salalah, in the subtropical south, is the capital of the region of Dhofar, stronghold of the Queen of Sheba and the start of the ancient Frankincense Trail.There can’t be many countries were you can find both frankincense and myrrh growing naturally – I must confess that until my guide, Farid, showed me how the gum is drawn from these two small trees, I really had little idea what the other two Kings had brought with them to Bethlehem.

The Musandam Peninsula is stark, dramatic and relatively unknown.The old smuggler port of Khasab is the main town,but the real attractions lie in the mountainous scenery (accessible by 4WD) and the teeming waters off the fjord-lined coast,where whale sharks and dolphins lure experienced divers. Snorkellers and boat-trippers will find easier,but no less happy hunting grounds on the tranquil beaches further south,where whales and green turtles can be spotted.

In the capital,Muscat, seek out the Mutrah souq. It may have a modern roof,but inside you can lose yourself (often literally) in the traditional Arab market experience, haggling for everything from gold to toy helicopters, antique furniture to plastic camels.