NORTH AND SOUTH

CITIES & TOWNS

NORTH The north claims the capital – buzzing, energetic Delhi. Zip around in an auto-rickshaw and see crumbling forts, bulbous mosques and Raj-era grandeur. Massive Maharangarh Fort dominates the vivid blue city of Jodhpur (pictured below), while Varanasi, one of the Hindus’ most sacred sites, hugs the River Ganges and attracts devotees from across the world to its historic bathing ghats.

SOUTH The cities of the south are a world away. Vibrant Kochi (Cochin), in breathtaking Kerala, gazes over the Arabian Sea and boasts an eclectic mix of Indian and European influences. On the east coast lies Pondicherry, which stands as a living monument of 300 years of French rule – French is widely spoken, and the seaside villas and cobbled streets are more reminiscent of the south of France than the south of India.

TEMPLES

NORTH Northern India must win the prize for the most expensive – Amritsar, the spiritual centre of Sikhism, boasts the glittering Golden Temple, the precious domes of which are covered with 400kg of gold. Khajuraho is certainly the raunchiest – the 10thcentury buildings are decorated with swathes of erotic sculptures, a sort of solid rendition of the Kama Sutra.

SOUTH The showpiece city of Hampi was the heart of the ‘Lost Empire’ of the 16th-century Vijayanagar kings. It can take days to explore this enormous, Unesco-listed complex. Then there’s the colour-explosion of Madurai’s Sri Meenakshi Temple – one of the biggest religious complexes in India – the 1,000-plus holy sites of Kanchipuram, and Mamallapuram (above), where the intricate Shore Temple to Shiva is met by the breaking waves of the Bay of Bengal.

WILDLIFE

NORTH Ranthambhore is the flagship national park, combining picturesque, fortress-studded forests with the chance of glimpsing a tiger. Madhya Pradesh, known as the ‘Tiger State’, harbours 10% of the world’s tiger population: Bandhavgarh National Park, in the east, is compact yet full of game, while Kanha (below), allegedly the setting for Kipling’s Jungle Book, is home to 130 tigers.

SOUTH Lesser known maybe, but scenic Periyar Tiger Reserve in the heart of Kerala boasts rare endemic and endangered flora and fauna. Crossing the border into Tamil Nadu you’ll find Mudumalai National Park. Nestled in the foothills of the Nilgiris, a spread of grasslands and evergreen forests, chital (spotted deer), sloth bear, wild elephants, panthers and tigers lurk here.

LUXURIOUS RETREATS

NORTH Udaipur is one of the most picturesque cities in Rajasthan – itself the epicentre of India’s finest forts and most colourful peoples and traditions. The Taj Lake Palace Hotel (pictured below) is renowned as one of the most beautiful and romantic palaces in the world, seeming to float serenely in the middle of Pichola Lake. It was built in the 17th century and was originally a summer retreat for the royal family of Udaipur. After a day’s sightseeing, the palace is the ideal retreat, with its hidden courtyards, tranquil fountains and beautiful setting.

SOUTH Goa remains quite distinct from the rest of India, with its Portuguese colonial villages, coconut groves and sun-kissed, palm-fringed beaches. Some of the best strands grace the south of the state, and Benaulim is arguably the finest – a peaceful village with outrigger canoes making splashes of colour on the sweep of the sand. The Taj Exotica hotel is situated on 56 acres of exquisitely landscaped lawns, complete with tropical plants and graceful palms. Rooms and villas are very spacious and luxuriously appointed, boasting private verandahs or balconies with views across to the sea – perfect for drinking in the jaw-dropping sunsets.

FOOD

Both north and south India cook up a mouthwatering array of dishes. In the north you won’t eat anything that doesn’t come with roti (bread), while in the south rice is the staple of choice, which accompanies hot and spicy, soupy curries – northerners are less liberal with their chillies. We asked two top chefs from the subcontinent’s Taj Hotels to each mix a dish that typifies their region.

NORTH: Sanjay Agarwal, chef, Taj Residency Lucknow Stuffed potatoes,tandoori style 4 large potatoes Oil for frying 50g sesame seeds Ghee 1.5 teaspoons red chilli powder 2 teaspoons garam masala powder 2 teaspoons cumin powder 30g cottage cheese 2 teaspoons reduced milk (khoya) 2 teaspoons green peas 2 teaspoons cashew nuts METHOD: Peel the potatoes, halve them and scoop out the centres. Immerse in water and parboil, then deep-fry  and roll them in the sesame seeds. In a pan, heat the ghee, roast the spices then add the cottage cheese, reduced milk, green peas and cashew nuts. Stuff the potatoes with this mixture and roast in a moderately hot tandoor for 15 minutes.

SOUTH: TG Rajesh, chef in charge, Taj Garden Retreat Kumarakom Palappam – rice flour pancakes 1kg basmati rice 200ml yeast salt to taste 25g sugar 200ml coconut milk METHOD: Soak the rice in water for four hours. Drain and grind the rice to a very fine paste, adding a little water as required. Add the yeast, salt, sugar and coconut milk, and set aside for fermentation for six hours. Heat a small pan and ladle a spoonful of batter into the centre. Tilt the pan in a circular movement to spread the batter. Cover with a lid and cook until crispy at the edges and soft in the centre. Serve with sweetened coconut milk.