Inca in Style

Dinnertime discussions in many homes turn to holidays: where shall we go for our trip of a lifetime? My house is no exception – but I knew that there was only one place I wanted to celebrate my 50th birthday. I wanted to walk the Inca Trail.

For years I’ve been in awe of the mountains, but never felt the need to climb them. That changed when I saw the Peruvian Andes. They captivated me, and I knew I wanted to hike the Inca Trail. However, I also knew I didn’t want to camp. So I was thrilled when Mountain Lodges of Peru built four lodges along the Salkantay route towards Machu Picchu, allowing adventurers to stay in style. Also, it is less busy: the classic Inca Trail sees up to 500hikers each day; in high season the Salkantay route takes 150-200, in low season just 80. Decision made.

After acclimatising to Peru’s heights in Lima, Arequipa and Puno, my family and I set off on the Andean Explorer train. Ten hours of jawdropping scenery later, we arrived in Cusco.

I was apprehensive: it had been ten years since I last visited – had it been ruined by overdevelopment? So I was delighted to find the charm of the place intact. The city has expanded, but regulations ensure all buildings are no higher than two storeys and that the roofs remain traditional terracotta. After two wonderful days exploring the city and the surrounding Sacred Valley, it was the moment of truth – time to start trekking.

Led by Manolo, who has been guiding here for 23 years, we set off on a gentle climb. My husband and the kids walked on ahead, our seven pack horses plodded with our bags, and I held up the rear with Manolo, who stayed patiently by my side.fter two and a half hours we arrived at Salkantay Lodge, stunningly set at the base of 6,271m Salkantay. If by not camping I was ‘cheating’, then I was the happiest cheat around – warm, comfy beds, hot showers and even a Jacuzzi were all extremely welcome, even after our short walk. Better still, we had Mario looking after us – the best cook in the mountains, according to Manolo –and he whipped up a delicious feast at every stop.

The next day I was anxious – I’d been told it was the hardest day, climbing to 4,600m. It was tough, but I loved it – I was realising a dream. Coming down from the highest pass, I was hit by the remoteness – one of the privileges of being the slowest. However, by the time we reached Wayra Lodge I was glad of the warm welcome and the hot mug of coca tea.Our third day was easy, so I was told (a matter of opinion, if you ask me) – a four-hour trek to the next lodge. It had snowed heavily during the night and it was still snowing when we set off. Due to the weather we had to be careful and stick together, which frustrated the children, who were forced to wait for their decrepit mother! They eventually raced ahead with Mario, while I limped behind. But it wasn’t about speed. I wanted to pause, to take in the beauty – and, yes, to catch my breath. To finally see Colpa Lodge come into view lifted my heart. Mario had already started cooking and laid out a feast of delicious meats cooked underground.

On our final six-hour stretch we passed from snowy mountains to jungle. Streams and waterfalls gurgled along the path, water whirling through the pebbles. Bright flowers blossomed – the scenery was lush and green, a contrast to the barren slopes around Arequipa. After four hours we stopped for more gourmet delights –shallow-fried trout and chicken, stuffed with spinach and bacon and served with one of Peru’s 5,000 varieties of potato.

After the final section the bus and train brought us to Aguas Calientes and the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Hotel – another very special place to stay, and perfectly placed. Next morning we took the bus to Machu Picchu itself. With our enthusiastic guide, Jorge, we explored the ruins, learning the meaning of almost every stone. It was truly incredible, exceeding all our expectations. As I gazed out over the ruins and surrounding mountains, I could think only one thing – this was the best birthday present I could imagine.

Plan you Peru experience now...

Discover the colonial grandeur of the 'White City,' Arequipa, plumb the depths of the Colca Canyon, or explore the shores of the islands of Lake Titicaca. Why not hike the magical Salkantay Trail and visit the ruins of Machu Picchu. The journey: Mountain Lodges of Peru, tailor made journey of 13 days from £3,195. book yours now and call our Latin America specialists on 08456 315118.