HOW TO SEE THE SEA

World-famous diver Jacques Cousteau reckoned the Red Sea was one of the world’s top three dive sites. With its pellucid waters, vivid coral and 1,000- plus species – from multicoloured shoals to ponderous turtles – it’s easy to see why. Cut off from major ocean currents, the Red Sea is amazingly calm, clear and warm – the perfect place for reefs and marine life to flourish.

Bordered by Egypt, Sudan and Eritrea to the west, and Israel, Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Yemen to the east, this sliver of water divides Africa from the Middle East. Surrounded by epic desertscapes, it’s a huge oasis in an arid land.

The easiest way to explore the Red Sea is from Egypt – on either a dedicated beach or dive holiday, or a few nights by the sea after absorbing the country’s ancient sites. But where should you go?

Sharm el Sheikh
Perched on the tip of the Sinai Peninsula, Sharm el Sheikh offers some of the planet’s best diving and snorkelling. The sea off Sharm, and the waters of Ras Mohammed National Park, teem with life: pretty parrotfish, massive wrasse and skulking sharks dart amid the coral.

But it’s not all about the diving – Sharm boasts golden sands, restaurants cooking up a world of cuisines and intriguing markets. Venture inland to the Sinai Desert – hop on a camel and make like a Bedouin or scale Mount Sinai at dawn to witness a sunrise of biblical proportions.

Best for:World-class diving and the desert beyond

Hurghada
Once a sleepy fishing village on the Red Sea’s west coast, Hurghada is now a haven for beach lovers and novice divers. It’s also accessible from Luxor and allows you to explore the southern reaches of the Red Sea. The place to splurge is the Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh – a sublime hotel with Islamic-style architecture and panoramic vistas – while for a taster of the town proper, head to the restaurants of Sigala harbour and the old souqs of Ad-Dahar.

Best for: Easy access to the southern Red Sea

 

El Quseir
El Quseir (below), 140km south of Hurghada, was once the port for the boats of the pharaohs. Nowadays it still oozes Egyptian charm, with local-filled coffeehouses, an Ottoman fortress and coral-block houses. The diving is fantastic, with swarming reefs to explore, or you can just kick back on the sandy beaches and soak up the relaxed atmosphere.

Best for: A truly Egyptian beach break

El Gouna
El Gouna, 20km north of Hurghada, is a thriving spot packed with great food, a wealth of watersports, an open-air amphitheatre for a spot of culture and yet more topnotch snorkelling and diving. It’s the perfect escape from the clamour of Egypt – café-hop along the promenade, shop in the local bazaars, toke on a sheisha pipe, then buy a beer – El Gouna has its own brewery – and toast the sun as it dips into the sea beyond.

Best for: Red Sea relaxation

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