DISCOVER GUJARAT

By Paul Taylor

Discover Gujarat

MY GUJARAT

In 2001 a catastrophic earthquake rocked Gujarat. Six years on, the west coast state is back up and running – yet remains largely untouched by visitors. And that’s why I love it. Sitting on a pristine beach at Mandvi, it would be easy to forget you’re in India at all. The Western tourists that throng to the rest of the country are notably absent, the friendly locals more interested in chatting than giving you the hard sell. Visiting Gujarat? I recommend starting in Ahmedabad, where the bustling noise and vibrant colours give a real feel for the state. It’s also home to Gandhi’s ashram, beautiful mosques and markets shimmering with textiles.

I would escape the urban clamour and head south to Palitana (above), the most sacred Jain pilgrimage site. Here, 863 exquisite marble temples teeter on the Shetrunjaya Hills. This site is made all the more special by the climb to reach it – up a whopping 3,500 steps! I’d start my ascent at dawn to avoid the heat of the day and to see the shrines lit by the golden morning glow.

After that exertion it’s time to hit the beach – though not before stopping off at Sasan Gir National Park, the planet’s last refuge for wild Asiatic lions.

At Diu, a tranquil island floating just off Gujarat’s south coast, kick back and relax. Like Goa, Diu was a Portuguese colony until 1961; it’s replete with whitewashed houses,an impressive fort and palm-fringed beaches. Take a stroll and find a wave-lapped spot for a sundowner – not only is the beer cheap here, but this is the only place alcohol is allowed in an otherwise dry state. After a rest at Diu turn north and explore the exotic old buildings of Junagadh, not missing Uperkot Fort, with its 20m-high walls and ornate gateway. Then it’s on to Mandvi, where I would book into a tented camp looking out over the Arabian Sea and tuck into a delicious vegetarian thali – a platter of rice, roti (bread), relish, pickles and curries.

Then continue north to the mysterious Great Rann of Kutch. Stretching towards the Pakistan border, this unique, arid region – a kind of vast island desert – is known as the ‘abode of tribal India’; 18 different tribal groups pepper the land, each with its own distinct language, culture and colourful garments. This is a great place for shopping – handicrafts made here are arguably unmatched in the whole country.

Laden with exotic textiles, head back to Ahmedabad – but not before one final stop, my favourite spot in the whole state. Dusty Patan is little visited, but hidden in its otherwise unassuming streets is the Rani-ki- Vav, one of the largest stepwells in India. Built in 1050, it is wonderfully preserved and superbly carved. It also seems to sum up the state as a whole – even the most inauspicious places in Gujarat can harbour little sparks of magic.