DELTA DREAMS

Gazing down from my lofty viewpoint, I spotted a herd of elephants lumbering below me, and a group of giraffes traversing the fl ood plains. From the air, Botswana’s Okavango Delta resembled nature’s own golf course; as my plane swooped over the land, my eyes swept across an immense labyrinth of creeks, lagoons, islands and riverine forest.

I was starting my adventure in one of the world’s most renowned safari destinations in customary fashion, fl ying in on a light aircraft – and what an entrance!

I headed fi rst for Shinde Camp. Entering my spacious tent on its wooden frame, I stepped onto my private veranda to admire the uninterrupted views across the waters of the delta. Shinde is unfenced, and a quick scan of neighbouring trees produced evidence of a recent invasion by jumbos – we really were cheek by jowl with the wildlife.

Tucked away on a palm island beside a lagoon, Shinde offers a range of opportunities for experiencing the delta’s animal attractions, including walks, motorboat excursions, fi shing and paddles in a mokoro – the traditional Okavango dugout canoe. I climbed aboard a 4WD for my fi rst game drive.

Game viewing is unpredictable by nature but in the delta, the privacy of any sighting makes each remarkable. After a couple of hours’ scouting, we halted for a sundowner; as I sipped, I watched a distant lion pride lazily contemplating a herd of red lechwe against the backdrop of a stunning sunset. Witnessing this remarkable scene by myself was an extraordinary privilege – a reason for visiting at the end of the season.

Footsteps Across the Delta, a walking camp, provides a very different experience; with simple Meru tents, it creates a true wilderness encounter for just six guests.

Stretching my legs on a three-hour guided ramble, I realised how much information I was absorbing – taking things slowly, we observed every detail, appreciating the sounds and smells of the delta. My last stop was Kanana Camp, overlooking the Xudum River. Easing myself into a mokoro, witnessing the minutiae of delta life from water level was a unique treat.

Botswana is one of Africa more expensive destinations; however, my lowseason trip offered superb wildlife watching at a reduced price.

Perhaps the most surprising aspect was my personal transformation to twitcher. Brilliantly coloured malachite kingfi shers, majestic fi sh eagles, Kanana’s famous heronry – all left me captivated. My birdwatching baptism was rounded off by a sighting of a magnifi cent, ginger-coloured bird on the lofty branches of an old leadwood tree: Pel’s fi shing owl – a birdwatchers’ holy grail. The memory of its penetrating stare will never leave me.