ARABIAN HEIGHTS

Separately, we’ve covered a lot of ground in this part of the world – Iran, Libya, Jordan, Egypt – but neither of us had ever been to Oman. But then not many people have. Known as the ‘hermit of the Middle East’, Oman has only recently embraced tourism, previously keeping its treasures to itself.

This, we discovered, is no bad thing – it means there are hardly any other visitors. It’s not unusual to have a fort or a fantastic view to yourself, and all the goods in the local markets – from saffron to silk – are great value, priced for the locals not for tourists.

We started our trip in Muscat, as most people would. It’s a sleepy capital – no Cairo or Damascus – but it’s home to some of the best hotels in the country, many with beachfront locations where you can laze by the Arabian Sea like a sultan. We’d recommend Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa, the ideal base from which to explore.

We got a glimpse of the mountains from Muscat, but it wasn’t until we headed out of town that we released how amazing the scenery really is. As we drove to Nizwa we cut through the Hajar Mountains and were assailed by those classic views of the Arabian Peninsula: desert, palm trees, camels and mountain-hugging villages.

Nizwa itself was incredible. We timed our visit with the Friday goat market, a cacophony of men wearing light-purple dishdashas (robes), trading goats, and brightly cloaked women crowding around to catch up on the week’s gossip.

But it was the Musandam Peninsula that blew us away. Separated from the rest of the country by a chunk of the UAE, this peninsula harbours some of the most diverse and stunning scenery anywhere in the Middle East.

Whether you breeze over the turquoise waters and explore by traditional dhow, delve into the craggy interior on a 4WD ride or plunge beneath the Gulf to meet the wealth of marine life, the Musandam Peninsula is up there with the region’s best. The scenery resembles parts of Jordan, Bolivia and Ladakh all rolled into one.

Oman is a great destination, and one that should be seen sooner rather than later. Visitor numbers are on the increase, but are still relatively low, making Oman an exciting fi nd – and giving you a real sense of adventure.