Amazon Magic

We boarded in mid-evening darkness, stepping from Iquitos onto the deck of the luxurious riverboat. In truth, I’d never fancied the jungle – the idea of being hemmed in by trees didn’t really appeal. But it wasn’t long before the Peruvian Amazon, and the M/V Aqua, changed my mind.

I was shown to my cabin, one of just 12 on board. My eyes popped: a vast window looked out from the spacious, en-suite cabin, offering unobstructed views of the great outdoors. Having settled in, it was time for dinner – a five-course indulgence. Peruvian cuisine is gradually gaining acclaim, and the Aqua’s gourmet menus have been created by one of Peru’s leading chefs. As we feasted, the Aqua set sail, and soon the lights of Iquitos disappeared. Over the next few days, the only lights we would see would be those of isolated communities or flashes of lightning across the tropical night skies.

Few boats sail in this untouched region. When the next day dawned (and the next, and the next…) we saw no other tourists. Our only companions were the tens of thousands of species lurking in this hotbed of diversity.

We set off on one of the Aqua’s three outboard skiffs with a naturalist guide to examine the river more closely. It was fabulous to experience the enormity of the Amazon. The main channels were flowing fast, but we soon left the river proper and delved down the twisting tributaries, the wind-rush of the speeding boat keeping us cool; the heat and humidity crept up on us when we slowed.

In the backwaters there wasn’t a ripple – the trees reflected off the mirror-like waters. We switched off the engines; all we could hear were jungle sounds – the squawk of a brightly coloured bird, the shriek of a howler monkey.

With such dense vegetation it can be difficult to spot wildlife, but the Aqua’s expert guides managed to spot the unspottable. Somehow they pointed out a wealth of life, from an iguana lying on a branch to a sloth hanging precariously from a tree.

As the days floated by I grew accustomed to river life. One day we fished for piranha, the next we visited a local village. At dusk we’d head out with flashlights to spot the shy nocturnal creatures.

I hadn’t been sure about the jungle. But as I stood on deck on the final morning, I saw a pod of river dolphins splashing up out of the water to a soundtrack of innumerable birds – and I realised I’d been converted.

To find out more, or to plan your Tailor Made holiday in Peru, call our specialists on 08456 315 118 or visit www.balesworldwide.com.