Millions of rural Chinese get around by bike - so what better way to meet them than to join them? Phil Ellis gets in the saddle

Phil is one of our Operations Team. He has travelled extensively throughout China and in particular loves cycling off the beaten track. To talk to our China and Far East team about your plans, call 08456 345 115.

Want a bike?” shouted a farmer, almost hidden behind an assortment of cycles. At first I thought he was asking us, none too politely and in poor English, to get lost. But when I approached his stall and saw his grin, I realised he was simply drumming up business. Bikes are everywhere in China; in Yangshuo, nestled in the country’s south-west Guangxi province, they’re the best way to explore. We handed over our 50 yuan deposits (a measly £3) and started out on our adventure. After negotiating the stalls of the bustling market, where locals trade an amazing variety of fruits, vegetables and freshly caught fish from the Li River, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by lush vegetation. Massive rock mounds, camouflaged in green and resembling massive termite hills, shot up from the ground, surrounded by a spread of paddy fields and orange trees. The only signs of life were a couple of farmers being dragged around by their loyal water buffaloes. Suddenly we heard a high-pitched “Hello!” A tiny lady in a hairnet  appeared from behind a tree, grinning. We returned the hello and, before I knew it, she’d thrust an orange blossom into my hand. I thought it was a gift, but she quickly put me right, demonstrating the art of pollination. I had a go myself. “Am I doing a good job?” I asked with a laugh. “Hello!” she replied. I tried a third time, asking her name. “Hello!” she smiled again.

Despite this limited understanding, we somehow managed to have numerous conversations and helped her pollinate a few hundred oranges. After several cups of tea, we said a fond “hello!” to our lady farmer and cycled on. Pedalling through the orchards, we turned a corner and stumbled across a small village, a cluster of mudbrick houses topped with intricate tiles. We stopped to eat our lunch, and were happily watching the traditional way of life drifting around us when an old woman with a beaming smile signalled us towards her home and invited us in. The coolness hit us instantly; we were offered seats and then given a bamboo basket full of chopped oranges. We’d been riding all morning and hungrily delved in, as the lady smiled at us intently. One of the reasons she was smiling soon became clear – she took us to her back room and showed us a brand new coffin. She had bought it earlier that week and was over the moon! It seemed strange and slightly macabre that she was so proud, but she’d saved up for a year to buy it and was keen to show it off.

The sun was dipping as we cycled back to Yangshuo along the banks of the Li. The cormorant fisherman were getting ready for their night’s work, poised in their boats with their faithful birds. We spotted two ladies punting upriver and asked if they would take us for a ride. Without hesitation they miraculously pulled out two small seats and handed us the paddles, letting us do the work while they relaxed and giggled at our poor technique. After an exhausting 15 minutes they took pity on us and resumed the paddling, handing us some sugarbeet to boost our flagging energy levels. It was perfect. As we were rowed along, gnawing on our snacks, the sun set over the golden waters, silhouetting the fishermen on their bamboo rafts and the dark shadows of the limestone pinnacles. My limbs were pleasantly weary, my mind completely calm. By bicycle or by boat – in China, I realised, the best way to travel is the slow way.

CHINA

The Bales way

In south-west China you can piece together your perfect combination of city sights and tranquil countryside. A typical 13-day trip through Yunnan province might start in the remarkable limestone forests of Kunming,and then move north-west. Highlights include visiting the colourfully dressed Bai people of Dali, drinking tea down a cobbled alley in Unesco-listed Lijiang and learning how to use the medicinal plants that grow in abundance around verdant Xishuangbanna. It’s a journey that takes in huge ethnic and geographic variety – from snow-capped mountains to plunging river canyons.This tailor-made trip costs from £1,995. For help choosing your perfect itinerary, call our China and Far East team on 08456 345 115