SERENGETI SAFARI

Nearing the end of a peaceful overnight flight from London, I woke up to the incredible sight of Mount Kilimanjaro at sunrise surrounded in a blanket of cloud and bathed in a myriad of colour. I knew from that moment that this first visit to Tanzania would not be my last.

 

Upon arrival in Arusha our driver for the week, 'Bosco', greeted us with a friendly shout of “Jambo!” meaning hello in Kiswahili. Bosco soon revealed to have an outstanding knowledge of the local history and wildlife, as well as being a more than capable operator of our 4x4 Land Rover.

 

Lake Manyara Serena Lodge was our first stop and offers stunning views of the Great Rift Valley with its woodland, grassland and swamps. From a distance, a pink haze appears to border the lake and it is only on closer inspection that you realise it is in fact thousands of pink flamingos feeding on the algae. Gazelles, hippos, elephants and tree climbing lions can also be found in the park along with the largest concentration of baboons in the world – some at close proximity, much to a colleague's horror!

 

After a relaxing evening spent by the elegant infinity pool at the Lodge and a hearty meal,we retired to the quaint two storey thatched cottages,many of which offer the unforgettable view over the Lake.

 

The following day we headed for the famous plains of the Serengeti National Park following a route around the edge of the Ngorongoro Crater, stopping at Gibbs Farm and Olduvai Gorge, home to some of the earliest hominoid fossils in the world with records of their habitation in the region going back at least 3 million years.

 

Gibbs Farm is a beautiful oasis of calm surrounded by lush rolling hills with its own coffee plantation and acres of organic fruit and vegetables, which feature in the delicious meals served in the old colonial farmhouse. A stay here provides a relaxing stop in-between safaris and is available as part of Bales Worldwide's Tailor Made options.

 

The Serengeti National Park, perhaps the most famous of Tanzania's parks and certainly the largest covering almost 15,000 square kilometres, was without a doubt the highlight of the trip. The vast plains run for miles in every direction and in May or early June you can witness the start of the annual migration of millions of zebra and wildebeest to the Masai Mara – the largest mass movement of land mammals in the world.

 

My most vivid memory was standing up to look out of the roof hatch and staring in amazement at the thousands of grazing wildebeest and zebra, this vision stretching across the plains as far as the horizon in every direction. I was so lucky to encounter the start of the migration, as a photograph just cannot do justice to this overwhelming experience.

 

The Serengeti is also home to large prides of lions, lazily draped over rocky outcrops in the heat of the day, with their cubs avidly watching lizards scurrying over the rocks. Graceful giraffe can also be found roaming around, occasionally taking shade under the picturesque acacia trees that dot the landscape. There is a variety of  accommodation in both the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Bales Worldwide have introduced a new two tier programme for 2006 offering the Serena Lodges as part of their 'superior' itinerary and Sopa Lodges for the 'classic' itinerary.

 

After the Serengeti I thought nothing would live up to its diversity of flora and fauna, yet the Ngorongoro Crater proved me wrong. The crater is the largest unbroken caldera in the world and due to its climate and permanent water springs, the 25,000 animals that inhabit it have no need to migrate. Only indigenous tribes such as the Masaai are allowed to live within the Conservation Area and they can be seen early in the morning herding their cattle and goats through the highland slopes.

 

Once on the crater floor we soon came across old bull elephants wandering through the trees and morning mist. It is said that they go to the crater to retire as everything they need is provided there. As we carried on along the track the forest cleared to reveal a small lake and grassy pastures where we later saw the rare black rhino, a warthog family, a variety of bird life and some menacing looking buffalo!

 

The last park we visited on our return to Arusha was Tarangire National Park, which has one of the highest populations of elephants in Tanzania. Accommodation was provided at the spacious and colourful Sopa Lodge. As we had managed to find a lone male cheetah in the Serengeti our final game drive was in pursuit of the elusive leopard. It was the only animal of the 'Big Five' (Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, Elephant and Rhino), which we hadn't seen throughout the trip.

 

Although we had to finally give up on our search for the leopard we certainly weren't disappointed, it had been an amazing adventure. I now have a fantastic collection of photographs and even better memories of all the beautiful wildlife, diverse scenery and the friendly people I met. I'm already thinking about my next trip to Tanzania. There's still Mount Kilimanjaro to climb and the pristine beaches of Zanzibar to discover!

 

 

See the Serengeti from above

Why not pre-book a hot air balloon flight over the Serengeti? In the early morning you can choose to float above the savannah for a unique perspective of the wildlife below, with superb photographic opportunities. The flight lasts about an hour and you can celebrate in the traditional manner with champagne on landing.